Bremont Caliber BE-36AE

The Bremont caliber BE-36AE is a 3-hander automatic watch movement with a date calendar complication. This movement is chronometer rated with a COSC certification.

Bremont refers to the BE-36AE as a “modified calibre”. A significant part of the modification appears to be the “Bremont moulded and skeletonised decorated rotor”.

Caliber Corner discovered several Bremont models with various configurations, all using the same caliber BE-36AE. For that reason, this movement has a high potential for causing caliber confusion in the watch community.

It also appears that the BE-36AE is a Forrest Gump movement, with some watches being listed as having 25 jewels and others with 26 jewels, there are likely older versions with ETA-made components.

Sellita SW22X-1 Base?

The BE-36AE is not an in-house movement manufactured by Bremont. It appears to be a Sellita caliber SW220-1 (or SW200-1) with a custom rotor. As mentioned above, older version may be based on the ETA 2824-2 – although this is unconfirmed, it would explain the 25 jewels specs.

While other watch publications may simply write “Sellita base”, zooming in on Bremont’s only stock photo of the movement on their Solo 43 page reveals what looks like SW220-1.

The SW220-1 is an ETA 2836-2 clone and is similar to the SW200-1. The main difference is that the SW220-1 has a day/date calendar complication rather than simply a date on the SW200-1.

It is interesting that Bremont would choose to use the SW220-1 over the SW200-1, particularly for the Solo 43 since that model only has a date. This would also mean that it’s possible that the Solo 43 has a Phantom Day position (see Phantom Date), but this is unconfirmed.

The MBI (Martin-Baker) is also listed as having the caliber BE-36AE, however, this model is a day-date, so the SW220-1 makes sense in this example.

Looking at an image shared by @Bremont on Twitter of the MBII model, the movement is clearly stamped SW200-1 under the balance wheel.

In the post mentioned above, Bremont also notes that the MBII is equipped with “a brand new black automatic bridge, designed to be more shock resistant”. Keep reading…

Anti-Shock Movement Mount:

Some Bremont watches powered by the BE-36AE appear to be equipped with what they call a “brand new automatic bridge for increased shock resistance”.

In Bremont’s own words:

“Included in every watch is a rubberised movement mount. A flexible ring connects the mount to the outer case, absorbing shocks and allowing the inner case and movement to float.” – Source

The Solo 43 model pictured at the top of this caliber listing does not seem to be advertised as having the anti-shock movement mount. That means there are watches with the anti-shock movement mount and watches without it, but all powered by a caliber that Bremont calls the BE-36AE. It seems obvious that with such a component upgrade, the brand should have considered giving it a new caliber designation to avoid any caliber confusion in the community. What if an enthusiast reads about the anti-shock becomes intrigued enough to seek out a Bremont with the BE-36AE, only to find the the watch purchased is an older model without the new feature. Simply creating a new caliber number would ensure more traceability and transparency for the brand.

Watches equipped with the anti-shock movement mount are marked with an Anti-Shock icon on the dial, as well as engraved on the caseback. Note that not all anti-shock movement mount equipped watches may be marked, so if this is something of importance to you, be sure to reach out to Bremont before purchasing a watch to make sure.

Country of Origin:

The cal. BE-36AE is a Sellita SW220-1 under the custom rotor, making it Swiss made, however, Bremont chooses to forgo claim to Swiss Made by not marking the dial, caseback, or rotor as such. Instead, the 6:00 marking on the dial reads “London”. Furthermore, the Bremont Solo 43 product page markets the watch as being “British Made” and “Hand-Built in England”.

“Every Bremont watch is hand-built by Bremont-trained assemblers in our Manufacturing & Technology Centre in Henley-on-Thames, the home of British watchmaking.”

It is unclear just how much of the “building” is done in England with regards to the SW220-1 based movement. Do they receive all of the Swiss made components separately and assemble them one-by-one from scratch as if assembling a puzzle? Or, do they simply screw on the Bremont moulded and skeletonized custom rotor?

Editor’s Commentary: Since country of origin has become a part of the marketing story for watch brands to sell watches, the transparency is often misguided by smoke and mirrors of the watch industry, and the nature of purchasing ebauche movements (or blanks as the clothing industry would call it) and putting a custom rotor with a brand specific caliber designation makes it all the more cloudy. The real question is why? And when did the industry become this way? Do watch collectors really care if the Swiss made parts are shipped separately and assembled by a brand? Wouldn’t the movement manufacturer be more experienced with assembling, oiling and testing their own movements themselves? It’s an interesting discussion for sure.

Perhaps the answer can be found in the notion that until the wannabe countries of origin are able to manufacturer their own complete movements without depending on the monopolistic houses in Switzerland, Japan and China for base calibers and components, then the community will continue to see efforts by watch brands attempting to build and assemble their way into the hearts and minds of watch enthusiasts who are likely to make a buying decision based on tribal pride or simply filling a slot in their watchbox with a piece that has a newfound country of origin story attached. Until then, you can bet that the watch publications will continue to propel the made-in-wherever-the-watch-brand-tells-us-to-write marketing story.

One thing for sure, the community (not individual brands and countries) needs to decide once and for all on what “made in” really means.

Video: Making of the NEW Bremont MB Savana

This video was uploaded to Bremont’s official YouTube channel on September 24, 2021. At about 20 seconds into the video, you can see the BE-36AE, as well as a custom datewheel being installed.

Additional Resources:

• Bremont Service and Repairs page