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Custom build, worldtimer

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C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

So... this is my second time building a custom.

My first was with an NH36A as the base, inspired by Seiko 5's Brian May Red Special. I liked the dial and hands, didn't like the rest so much. I was looking for a black and red themed watch, to match my red and black themed outfits. 🙂 I gutted the watch, and then stuffed the guts into something I preferred. Sort of. No Brian May Red Specials were harmed in the process.

So there I was, following rabbit trails and stuff looking at astronomy stuff (another hobby) and I found Omega's Aqua Terra Worldtimer. The one with the laser-ablated map. And then I discovered that the map in the middle doesn't move. And the city names didn't move along with it. Bummer. Nice watch though.

The thought of a watch that would do what I want it to do does interest me though. A hundred or so searches later, I found Ciga's Blue Planet gild version. Matches my theme, somewhat, not quite.

So... I'm about to give up, but I figure maybe I could make something custom.

My goals will maybe change over time but here are my current ones:

  • minimal maintenance
  • reliability + precision
  • world time, not dual time
  • black base and red+white accents

Currently I am just at the stage of considering GMT movements I can buy. I haven't figured out more than a few...

Automatic 4 Hz

  • Rolex 3285 (clone)
  • Rolex 3186 (clone)
  • Hangzhou 6460
  • Sea-gull 2130

Automatic 3 Hz

  • Seiko NH34
  • DG 2813 GMT / DG 3804 / whatever that is called

Quartz

  • Ronda 515.24H

Notes:

* I would dismiss the 3 Hz movements but for the fact that it is easy to get parts.

* I compiled this list using CC and AliX. Yes, it took a lot of effort and a significant number of days. This is probably not the last time I will build a custom, so yeah -- I was thinking a searchable database would be reeeeeeeeeeeeeal useful. Hint hint. 🙂

* I am still learning, don't expect too much from me. hahaha

 
admin
Posts: 90
Moderator
2 months ago
 

What makes the CIGA Design Blue Planet special is that the dial also acts as the hands, and it has one crown.

Most world timers have a fixed dial with an inner rotating bezel that adjusts to set the city (example). This means they have an extra crown to adjust the city/world time bezel. This might be your best chance of getting close to what you want, but instead of an outer bezel, see if you can make it a dial size disc that fits between the dial and hands.

It's going to be a challenge to find an individual mechanical movement off the shelf with a module capable of managing the dial as a rotating indicator.

You can try to find disc style "hands". Or, perhaps an existing watch that uses the disc style time display. Maybe something like a SevenFriday M1 (powered by Miyota 8215), or the more budget friendly Stauer Dashtronic (seems to be powered by a caliber 2813, based on the Miyota 82XX and there is a GMT version - if you can get the discs, paint them and use the GMT hand, it could work).

Quartz may give you more options to play with and cheaper to explore.

New search/filter system is in the works as this is being typed.

Keep us all updated!

 
pamoh
Posts: 62
Trusted Member
2 months ago
 

Good luck, lofty goals.  Many rabbit holes to explore.  

 
C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

The GP worldtimer looks interesting. Not what I was looking for, but I like how the sun and the moon are at their zeniths at 12.

I thought "24 h indicator" meant something else. Is there a glossary somewhere on the Internet with pictures? I may have been using the wrong terms.

I will have another look at Miyota. I gave up previously because I was confused by their website.

 
C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

Posted by: pamoh

Good luck, lofty goals.  Many rabbit holes to explore.  

Yup. Fully aware my goals are at least a little crazy. Maybe crazy stupid, because I am not sure I even know the terms properly. hahaha

What's life without a challenge, right? You don't always have to reach a lofty goal, you just have to make an honest effort. That would be plenty rewarding as it is, right? To know you attempted to bring a dream to reality. Who knows, you might reach something else that is worthwhile in the attempt. Aim for the eagle, maybe you will hit a hawk. Aim for the moon, maybe you will hit the eagle. Aim for the stars -- isn't that how we reached the moon?

On the other hand, there is this bunch of people that tell us to aim small to hit a small bulls eye. They are also wise words to live by.

On the other hand, I am sure you have reasons to say what you did. Have you tried something crazy hard before? Leave some experience so that I know what pitfalls to avoid.

 

 
pamoh
Posts: 62
Trusted Member
2 months ago
 

Since you asked, and I am not trying to start anything here but.

  • minimal maintenance  Do it right once and you don't have to worry about maint.  From my experience, this is and area that most folks talk the talk but don't walk the walk.  If you can do it your self fantastic but Most folks do not follow the manufactures suggested interval.  The cost ie the price most qualified techs must charge is higher than most folks are willing to pay, unless it is a very, high end watch.  
  • reliability + precision  Ina world where most folks find it socially acceptable to be 5 minutes late to a meeting, these words don't have much meaning.
  • world time, not dual time  not sure what your intent is here be it a bezel or insert.  I have not seen any readably available.  
  • black base and red+white accents,  custom dial might be in your future unless you find something on line.  

As a second time modder, you should be familiar with your options.  Donor watch to scavenge, or after market case as a start to define the dimensions, then figure out what the insides will look like, be it quartz, automatic or manual. Dial, hands all to fit.  Where there is a will there is a way.  At what price in time and dollars. 

I do aim small. (love that movie) but this little bit is my experiences and hopefully might provide a path forward.    

 
C2C liked
C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

Posted by: pamoh

Hey nice, you caught that quote. 🙂

I will probably fail, but I want to try. I want to be someone who tried and failed rather than someone who didn't fail because I didn't try. It would be seriously nice to succeed though. 🙂 Riiiiiiiiiight?

Anyway, I guess I was right about having to rethink the words I used. I don't think I delivered the correct message.

 

 
C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

Uh. Is it possible to edit a post?

 
pamoh
Posts: 62
Trusted Member
2 months ago
 

OBTW, I am not a big fan of clone movements.  The fake watches out there are growing in popularity, precision and reliability.  It is really tough to pick out the fakes these days so I stay away.  I realize that most watch movement development start some where, but buying a clone or fake from some offshore manufacture who probably did not develop the basic movement is not right in my book.  

 
C2C liked
C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

OK Never mind here we go:

  • minimal maintenance -- I mean I want a watch I don't have to reset time every day, so I prefer automatics, or a quartz, or even a solar powered one if I can get one. I just want to put on the watch in the morning and go. Or if I'm having a lazy day sometime in the afternoon or evening.
  • reliability + precision -- COSC is nice. Superlative chronometer sounds nice. But not particularly necessary. I just don't want to look at the watch and get the wrong time.
  • world time, not dual time -- Ah for this one I am picturing being able to tell the time for anywhere around the world at any time without turning a bezel or anything just by looking at the map and locating the city/timezone (which is why I am after a rotating map.) It's a pity it's a disc, so only the Northern hemisphere is expected at this point. Definitely sure at this point a custom dial is necessary.
  • black base and red+white accents -- Yup pretty much sure a custom dial is in the future. I'll give it a try before I give up though.
 
C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

Posted by: pamoh

OBTW, I am not a big fan of clone movements.  The fake watches out there are growing in popularity, precision and reliability.  It is really tough to pick out the fakes these days so I stay away.  I realize that most watch movement development start some where, but buying a clone or fake from some offshore manufacture who probably did not develop the basic movement is not right in my book.  

Well, I'm looking at clones because I think some people would be seriously unhappy (plus some that will want me committed) if I buy a perfectly good Rolex and dismantle it for parts. If I use a clone, sure you will disapprove, but it's cheaper for experiments and surgery for transplants. I would say that it would be on the extreme end of exciting to do the same to a genuine item though. heh heh heh. Maybe I will do it some day.

I mean hey, I know perfectly well my experiment may not work, why ruin a perfectly good masterpiece for it?

 

 
pamoh
Posts: 62
Trusted Member
2 months ago
 

one option , and this one has a mistake with the spelling of singapour

1727533238-s1.jpg
 
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pamoh
Posts: 62
Trusted Member
2 months ago
 

another older option 

1727533158-20240928_091333.jpg
 
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C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

Oh NICE. It's red, black and white, too. What movements are those using? GMTs? Or 24H movements?

I want the map to turn once a day, so that each time-zone is at its correct time. It will be a problem during daylight savings, but have a semispherical, 3D map tilted at 23 degrees is a bit too much even in my dreams. I might as well program a smartwatch for 3D display if it comes to that.

 
C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 2 months ago
 

Something that looks like this, maybe.

1727621097-Screenshot-2024-09-29-224312.png
 
pamoh
Posts: 62
Trusted Member
2 months ago
 

Zodiac and seiko world timers.  All in house movements.

 
C2C liked
CJDUDHF
Posts: 21
Eminent Member
2 months ago
 

Posted by: pamoh

one option , and this one has a mistake with the spelling of singapour

"Singapour" might be French.

 

 
C2C
 C2C
Posts: 16
Eminent Member
Topic Starter 1 month ago
 

So... I just discovered the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum today. I think it's pretty cool.

I'm back because I have failed in looking for movement modules. When I type in movement modules I tend to end up with Time movement modules -- but modules in this case appears to refer to movements. The rabbit trails are seriously interesting.

I think I saw in the forum some talk about 24-hr watches. Another interesting rabbit trail.

 
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